Common Failures We Fix
Float/Switch Problems
Debris or misalignment prevents activation. We clean, reposition, or replace with reliable switches.
Clogged Discharge
Ice, debris, or a failed check valve stops flow. We clear, insulate, and install quiet check valves.
Power & Alarm
Tripped GFCI, failed outlet, or low battery on backups—We correct wiring and charger issues.
Pump Wear
Impeller damage or bearing wear reduces flow; we replace and test performance.
Signs Your Sump Pump Needs Repair
- Loud grinding, rattling, or humming noises from the pit
- Short cycling every minute, even during dry weather
- Musty odors or dampness near the pit despite recent rain
- Visible rust on the housing, float arm, or check valve
- GFCI trips when the pump attempts to start
- Discharge pipe bangs when the pump stops (water hammer)
These symptoms often trace back to a mis‑set float, undersized pump, obstructed discharge, or a failing capacitor. We isolate the root cause so you don’t just silence the noise—you get reliable drainage.
Our Repair Process
- 1.Inspection & testing: float, pump amperage, check valve, and discharge path.
- 2.Repairs: clear blockages, replace switches/check valves, or install a new pump when necessary.
- 3.Commissioning: fill‑pit test, alarm/battery check, and homeowner orientation.
Emergency Steps During Heavy Rain
While we’re en route during a storm, these quick actions can limit damage:
- Verify power at a working GFCI and ensure a dedicated outlet.
- Lift the float carefully: if the pump starts, the switch may be sticking.
- Check the check valve orientation; reverse flow indicates a failed valve.
- Clear the exterior discharge of ice, snow, or leaves.
- Use a utility pump temporarily and route the hose to a safe drain area.
Backups: Battery, Water‑Powered, and Dual Pumps
Primary pumps can fail precisely when you need them—during storms. We install smart battery backups with chargers and alarms, water‑powered backups where municipal pressure allows, or dual‑pump pits that share the workload and provide redundancy.
Battery Backup
Runs during outages and alerts you to battery status before storm season.
Water‑Powered
No electricity required; uses household pressure with proper backflow protection.
Dual Pumps
Two matched pumps alternate duty and provide immediate failover if one stops.
Preventing Frozen or Flooded Discharge Lines
Pocono winters can freeze uninsulated lines. We add freeze‑resistant check valves, proper pitch, and insulated sections. Where code allows, an air‑gap fitting lets excess water spill safely near the foundation rather than back‑flooding the pit.
- Insulate exterior piping and protect outlets from snow berms
- Use quiet, spring‑loaded check valves rated for vertical orientation
- Maintain a continuous slope toward the outlet to avoid traps
Maintenance Schedule
Monthly: Lift the float to confirm operation; listen for smooth startup and shutoff.
Seasonal: Flush the pit, clean the grate, and test the check valve for slam or leak‑back.
Yearly: Inspect wiring, GFCI, and battery health; replace worn gaskets and hoses.
Every 5–7 years: Consider proactive replacement of the primary pump.
DIY Troubleshooting (Safe Checks)
If you’re comfortable, these safe checks can help identify problems while you wait for service:
- Unplug the pump and inspect for debris around the impeller intake.
- Verify the float travels freely and isn’t snagging on cords or pit walls.
- Listen for water rushing back after shutdown—this suggests a bad check valve.
- Confirm the discharge terminates away from the foundation into a clear area.
Avoid reaching into a powered pit, and never bypass safety devices. If breakers or GFCIs trip repeatedly, stop and schedule professional repair.
Repair vs Replacement
We fix switches, check valves, and clogged lines—but recommend replacement when motors draw excessive amperage, seals fail, or the unit is beyond its typical lifespan. Submersible pumps generally last 5–7 years in active pits.
Local Considerations in Monroe County
High water tables and snowmelt can overwhelm undersized pits. We often enlarge basins, add sealed lids for radon control, and route discharges to daylight locations that won’t freeze. We follow local codes for backflow prevention and electrical safety.
Costs & Timelines
Simple switch or check‑valve repairs are fast; pump replacements and frozen discharge lines take longer. We provide upfront pricing and options for adding a backup.
Pricing & Options
- Diagnosis and minor repairs (switches, check valves, adjustments)
- Pump replacement with new check valve and flexible couplings
- Battery backup install with charger, alarm, and labeled controls
- Discharge re‑routing and insulation for freeze protection
We provide clear, written estimates before work begins and back our workmanship with a documented warranty.
FAQs
My pump runs but water doesn’t move?
Likely a failed check valve or clogged discharge. We diagnose and restore flow.
Why does it cycle every minute?
Float set too low, backflow without a check valve, or a failing pump. We adjust and repair.
Should I add a battery backup?
Yes—outages often happen during storms. Backups protect your basement when the primary fails or power is out.
Is a pedestal pump quieter?
Pedestal units run cooler and are easy to service, but submersibles are quieter and handle debris better. We recommend based on your pit and noise sensitivity.
Do you install sealed lids?
Yes—sealed lids reduce odors and can help with radon mitigation, while also keeping debris out of the pit.
How far should the discharge terminate?
At least several feet from the foundation on a slope to daylight. We can extend and add splash protection to avoid erosion.